El Restaurant De Ramon

Ramon's is the resort restaurant that outgrew the genre: a clean, comfortable, semi-formal room at the Sonoran Sea where the wait staff treats tables like royalty and the chef has been known to come out himself. The signature is the Sebastian, a filet mignon wrapped in bacon, set on mashed potatoes and crowned with gorgonzola. The tortilla soup arrives as theater, the broth poured at the table over avocado, cheese and toasted strips. The Mediterranean octopus converts the hesitant, the enchiladas are seasoned with actual restraint, and the orange juice at breakfast is fresh-squeezed. It serves all three meals at prices fairer than the white-tablecloth energy suggests, with the sea in the background doing what it does. Visitors who find it late all file the same complaint: that they found it late.